super8 cameras for sale (new)

[x-frame.be]

super8 cameras (new) for sale at www.x-frame.be

[#Pedro]

...and they have the H?hnel Thermo Kollmatik splicer!!!
Pedro

[tom hardwick]

I do NOT like the Kollmatic. I've had two and got through 6 or so grinding wheels. The frame damage at splices got me known as "One Shot Tom" because after a while I was loath to use that splicer.

Then I bought a Wurker and then found the roll tape fed Fuji. Now I can rest in heaven, smiling sweetly. No-one sees or hears my splices any more. Peace.

tom.

[pcg]

Tom, Thanks for the warning!
/pat

[Alex]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Courier, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by tom hardwick:
I do NOT like the Kollmatic. I've had two and got through 6 or so grinding wheels. The frame damage at splices got me known as "One Shot Tom" because after a while I was loath to use that splicer.

Then I bought a Wurker and then found the roll tape fed Fuji. Now I can rest in heaven, smiling sweetly. No-one sees or hears my splices any more. Peace.

tom.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I really like the Wurker splicer....is the tape still being made?

What is a "roll-tape Fed-Fuji"?

Thanks in advance?

"One-Shot Tom"...the John Wayne of editors.

-Alex

[Roy Brown]

Maybe a new thread on a old subject "Splicers The Good, The Bad and The Ugly". I have to admit my strong suit (if any) is good camera work. I struggle with splicing and have tried several different ones. The best low visibility splice was the Wurker but the tapes went down in quality and it became harder and harder to make a good splice. It also took me for ever to make one. I use the Fuji now and it does a good job and is quick but they are a little more visible. I am trying to get good at Cement splices with the Bolex Bevel splicer but they don't seem to be very strong and I think the splicer needs adjusting.

[#Pedro]

Tom,
the result of this motor splicers depends mostly on the state of the grinding disc and if you grind the film ends sufficient. Now there are new grinding discs available which garantee perfect results. The motor splicers without heater ("Thermo"-models) require a manual cement application as any other cement splicer. So the results depends on many things you have to consider and to care for. The grinding disc, how you grind, the cement, how much cement.
The "Thermo-" Collmatic uses a special liquid cement , which can be mixed with acetone and dioxan by yourself. The application is semi-automatic, made with a handle. This way, you get more constant results, as always the same quantity of cement is applied to the film. The splicer itself has an inbuilt heater which dryes the splice within 5 seconds. With that splicer I obtain perfect, invisible splices in short time. They run thru the projector gate without any noise and are really not visible. Only if you splice at a very clear fame, you can not a horizontal line thru one frame. But this line, you only will see when you know, that there is a splice.
With tape splicers I always have the problem, that the film is thicker at the splice, thus elevating the pressure plate of any projector and causing a change in focus. Also, when using stereo stripe in post production, it becomes dificult to find a good tape splice solucion which don?t cover the place for the sound stipe and gives the film the neccessary stability. If there was one - I would use it!
But the best splicing machine is the Hamman device, which cuts the film instead of grinding it.
Pedro

[Alex]

The Wurker Stereo Splice was so clean you could use it on Super-8 film destined for Rank Cintel transfer and the splice would not "jump" when it went through the gate.

-Alex

[tom hardwick]

Pedro, you say there are grinding disks available which "guarantee perfect results", but I'll have to fall out with you on that one. I've done a lot of splice tests and evaluation in my time and have even lectured on the subject at a film club. I've viewed all my test splices under a microscope and I cannot get away from this simple fact:

that a cement splicer must (by definition) damage one of the two frames that will be joined. My Kollmatic grinds away the base of scene A and the picture of scene B. When these two strips of film overlap and are cemented together the film thickness remains constant. The last frame of scene A and the first frame of scene B are unmarked.

Fine so far. But the last frame of scene A has this horizontal line across it where the grinding wheel has cut into the base and where scene B overlaps it. And it's the effective damage to this frame (even though it's on the base and not on the emulsion) that destroys every edit.

When this line cuts through a closeup of a face say, it's absolutely unacceptable, even at 24fps. I've used very thin self adhesive gold patches over such damaged splices, believing that "no picture" is often preferable to "damaged picture".

But then came tape patches. Wurker were fine untill their quality standards dropped and the patches became too small, resulting in the vertical "Wurker line" on screen as the patch (a two frame always) went through. Not only that but sometimes the tape they used wasn't perfectly clear, so I bought the Fuji roll fed machine. So far, so good.

tom.

[AlexGfromUK]

poor old x-frame, his super cameras for sale post has turned into a splicer debate, ah well I guess he was one of those one time advertisement poster types anyway.